By Nick Deiuliis
Humans are odd creatures. We spend billions of dollars and invest precious free time to travel and explore the history and culture of places, both near and far. Our bucket lists abound with unvisited destinations as our runway of time remaining in our mortal coils steadily diminishes.
Despite our innate drive to explore, we often pass by and miss a trove of history waiting to be discovered during our travels. Stories that are latently present in something you find everywhere, from hometowns to exotic locales.
Where is all this history and culture awaiting? In, of all things…hotels.
Think about it. Travelers tend to limit exploration options to the traditional list of museums, monuments, streets, neighborhoods, restaurants, and events. Meanwhile, hotels are demoted to nothing more than places to sleep and park luggage.
That’s a mistake for lovers of travel, history, and sense of place.
Of course, the older the hotel, the deeper the history and story. Certainly, every large American city boasts an impressive list of legacy-rich hotels. In Europe, it’s ridiculous how deep the roster runs.
Realizing how hotels can add to the travel experience opens a new dimension to historical and cultural prospecting.
By way of example, consider the awe-inspiring history of a hotel I stumbled upon during a recent trip. It’s in the Netherlands; in the city of The Hague, the official seat of government of the Netherlands.1 Its name is Hotel Des Indes. What a story it has.
The Palace Before the Hotel
The Hotel Des Indes prominently sits in the center of The Hague, occupying the corner of the city’s famous tree-lined avenue, Lange Voorhout. This impressive green space was originally envisioned and created in 1536 when the Holy Roman Emperor and House of Habsburg leader, Carl V, visited The Hague and wanted to alleviate the city’s overcrowding. The front yards of several prominent residences were appropriated, and the consolidated space was converted into a prestigious walking avenue lined by trees.
For five centuries that vision has provided one of Europe’s most enjoyable urban venues.
The Lange Voorhout in the city center of The Hague, the Netherlands, on a sunny autumn day.
By the late 1500s, as the Middle Ages ended, the region we now know as the Netherlands became a republic. Its political center became The Hague, and the golden age of the Dutch Empire, one of the most powerful empires in history, began.
The Dutch Empire rose, roamed the world, and receded. Meanwhile, not much happened on the corner of The Hague’s Lange Voorhout for about 300 years.
Things got interesting in 1858 when Baron van Brienen, a counsellor to Dutch King William III, decided to build a town palace on the corner of the posh Lange Voorhout. He chose the location despite already enjoying an impressive estate, Clingendael, on the outskirts of The Hague, so that he could host parties in the city center.2
The baron built his urban palace, featuring a magnificent ballroom and other luxurious amenities that would later benefit the future hotel. The palace was a bold statement, and in many ways a physical manifestation of the baron’s ego.
The baron’s eye for detail in the mid-1800s can be found in today’s hotel. The baron had his initial ‘B’ inscribed on the gilded doorknobs of each chamber, which can still be admired on the doors of the entryway to the hotel salon. There is a small hole in the top of these doorknobs, designed to accommodate a feather. A white feather in the doorknob signified to palace staff and visitors that entry was permitted, while a red feather in the doorknob indicated the baron did not want to be disturbed.3
Despite his stature, title, and fortune, in 1863 the baron ultimately did what we all do: he died.
Birth of the Hotel Des Indes
In real estate it’s all about location, location, location. The baron’s palace occupied a prime spot on the corner of the gathering center of The Hague. A perfect location for a hotel.
After the baron’s death, the palace building was sold, underwent an extensive multi-year renovation, and was dedicated as a hotel. An 1880 announcement boasted, “This first-grade hotel is the largest in the residency and has been newly furnished according to the standards of this current time.” Indeed, the Hotel Des Indes was quite the item when it opened.
The hotel’s name, Des Indes, was inspired by the then-famous hotel of the same name in Batavia, or what we know today as Indonesia, which was a Dutch colony. The coat of arms of Batavia is still displayed in the triangular decoration on the facade of the hotel and on the canopy over the hotel entrance. The name of the Batavian hotel was copied as a marketing ploy to attract travelers from the Dutch East Indies as guests when visiting The Hague.
The first guest, at least for dinner, was the famous reformed banker-turned-Dutch artist, Hendrik Willem Mesdag.4 The painter reserved a large table at the end of April in 1881 to celebrate a wedding anniversary with his wife and his close friends.
Above is a section of Mesdag’s most famous work, the Panorama Mesdag. The painting is a massive panoramic work completed in 1881 that showcases a 360-degree painted view of the beach and dunes at Scheveningen.
On May 1st, 1881, the hotel officially opened with a toast by Prince Frederick of Orange. Two days later the hotel hosted a ball, with attendees wearing costumes dressed as Greeks, Turks, or in Renaissance style.
Hotel Des Indes soon made its mark as a progressive and innovative hotel for its time. Each floor had a bathroom and a few years later each room was outfitted with a bathroom, offering hot and cold running water. There was an intercom system that guests could use to call reception from their rooms. The hotel offered an unprecedented level of luxury and technology.
Home-Away-From-Home for Political Elites
Russian Tsar Nicolas II, the last emperor of Russia, father of Anastasia, and eventual victim of a Bolshevik firing squad, played a pivotal role in the hotel’s legacy when he proposed to host a peace conference in The Hague in 1899. A slew of new guests, consisting of heads of state, governors, and diplomats, found their way to the residential hotel and stayed there for months during what came to be known as the First International Peace Conference.5
The Tsar’s idea and subsequent conference created the opportunity for Hotel Des Indes to cement its reputation among the elites of the diplomatic service. That’s a key constituency that regularly visits The Hague, the seat of Dutch government.
American political leadership was drawn to the Hotel Des Indes through the years; Presidents Benjamin Harrison, Teddy Roosevelt, and Jimmy Carter stayed at the hotel on separate occasions.
The hotel also has an impressive Pittsburgh connection.
After that first peace conference in 1899, it was agreed that the world needed an International Court of Arbitration so that humans could avoid war.6 A donation was made by Andrew Carnegie, at the time the richest man in the world, to construct what became the Peace Palace in The Hague (today it houses the International Court of Arbitration). Before Andrew Carnegie’s visit to The Hague in 1913 to commemorate the opening of the Peace Palace, the hotel hosted an army of security staff tasked with protecting Carnegie from kidnapping.
Surviving Conflict: Hotel Des Indes Through the World Wars
Austria’s Archduke Franz Ferdinand stayed at the Hotel Des Indes three years before his assassination that triggered the start of the First World War. Although the Netherlands remained neutral during the Great War, the global strife led to economic calamity, affecting the hotel as well. It took an intervention by the Dutch government in 1918 to insure the survival of the Hotel Des Indes. The government bailout of the hotel allowed the Netherlands to offer war negotiators first-class lodging while they immersed in peace talks at the nearby Peace Palace.
Between world wars, in 1929, the hotel hosted diplomats who met at The Hague for the Conference on Reparations, just before the collapse in global financial markets.
Then came World War II. The Netherlands tried to remain neutral at the start, hoping to copy its successful strategy for avoiding World War I’s destruction. Unfortunately, Germany didn’t consider Netherlands neutrality as acceptable, and Hitler demanded its immediate surrender.
He was rebutted initially, so Germany proceeded to have Rotterdam destroyed by German bombers. Germany promised to unleash the same devastation on The Hague, Amsterdam, and other Dutch cities in the coming days if the Netherlands did not unconditionally surrender. General Winkleman was left in charge of the Dutch government after the queen fled to London. Facing certain destruction across his country, the general surrendered on May 14th, 1940, a few doors down from the Hotel Des Indes.
The Germans occupied The Hague and the Wehrmacht moved into the Hotel Des Indes. A machine gun was placed in the hotel hallway. A bust of Hitler was brought to the hotel to be placed at the reception area, but the hotel director brazenly objected, and surprisingly the rejection was accepted by the Germans. The hotel during World War II German occupation became known as the ‘Wehrmacht Hotel’.
LEFT: The Hague Arrival of General Eisenhower Lange Voorhout Palace on Oct. 6, 1945. RIGHT: General Eisenhower and Dutch General Hendrik Johan Kruls at Hotel Des Indes on Jan. 10, 1951 (Credit: Duinen, […] van / Anefo – Nationaal Archief)
After liberation by the Allies, American troops stayed at the hotel. Britain’s Winston Churchill and General Montgomery were some of the first guests after liberation. There’s a famous photo of General Eisenhower touring The Hague after the war with the Hotel Des Indes in the background, and Ike returned to the hotel in the early 1950s when he became the first NATO commander.
Spectrum of Celebrity Through the Years
Andrew Carnegie wasn’t the only American business titan to be connected to the Hotel Des Indes. Henry Ford and his family stayed at the hotel in 1930 as he worked on building a Dutch manufacturing facility. Media tycoon William Hearst stayed at the hotel regularly in the 1930s as he attended art shows looking for Dutch masters works for his extensive art collection.
Charles Lindberg was at the hotel in the 1930s, who after his famous transatlantic flight was the biggest celebrity on the planet. The Dali Lama was at Des Indes.
Movie stars stayed at the hotel through the years, including France’s Yvette Guilbert in 1902, one of the world’s first movie stars. Josephine Baker, the first black woman to star in a movie and civil rights activist, stayed at the hotel in 1955. Iconic Audrey Hepburn signed the hotel guestbook during the mid-1980s. Omar Shariff played in a bridge tournament at the hotel.
Rachmaninoff, of the great composers of classical music, slept at the hotel in 1928.
The most famous ballerina in the world in the 1920s, Anna Pavlova, of The Dying Swan fame, met her premature and unfortunate demise at the hotel in 1931, in the hotel’s Japanese Salon. Pavlova was traveling, and while staying at the hotel became severely ill. Doctors told her she had pneumonia, she required an operation, and that she would never be able to dance again if she went ahead with the operation. She refused to have the surgery, saying, “If I can’t dance, then I’d rather be dead”. She died shortly after in the hotel.
Prince (or the artist formerly known as Prince) set up at Des Indes when he played Rotterdam. So did Michael Jackson and Bono. The arrival of Mick Jagger brought a mob of hysterical fans in front of the entryway of the hotel.
Incredible Story Within an Epic History
There is one story tied to Hotel Des Indes than impresses above all others, one that does not pertain to a celebrity or notable event. Instead, it is an amazing story of an individual.
The story belongs to a long-time hotel employee, Kurt Irrgang. He worked at the hotel for nearly 40 years, but it was his journey over his career that is amazing.
Kurt was born in Germany in 1914 and moved to Belgium when he was a teenager to train for a career in hospitality. After he graduated from hotel school, he moved to The Hague and started a job as a lobby boy at the Hotel Des Indes. Kurt married a Dutch woman, she gave birth to twins, and then Germany promptly invaded the Netherlands. A challenging time to be raising a young family.
But it got worse for Kurt. When the Germans occupied The Hague and the Wehrmacht settled into the Hotel Des Indes, they came to realize Kurt is German-born. Protocol dictated that Irrgang be immediately assigned to join the German military. He was separated from his family and dispatched to the worst front imaginable, the Russian Front. The last place you would want to be as a German foot solider during World War II.
Toward the end of the war as Germany is collapsing, Kurt is captured by the Russians in Czechoslovakia. He is sent to a prison camp in Siberia, likely undergoing forced labor, torture, and other trauma that he refused to speak of through his life. He was released by the Russians a few years after the war’s end, and he made his way back to his family in The Hague.
Kurt returned to the hotel to work and climbed his way up the career ladder to become Matre’d of the Hotel Des Indes. He officially became a Dutch citizen in 1956.
Kurt became an iconic part of the hotel in the eyes of guests and staff.
Some say history is made by the individual. Kurt Irrgang’s journey proves they are correct.
Des Indes: Blueprint for Spotting History Hiding in Plain Sight
The story of Hotel Des Indes is one example in one city. There are hundreds of Hotel Des Indes across America and Europe waiting to be appreciated and decoded.
The Hague is located on the west coast of the Netherlands, approximately 45 miles southwest of Amsterdam. The North Sea is visible on the horizon, above.
Don’t miss hiding-in-plain-sight history and culture during your next visit or trip to wherever life takes you. It may be where you live and sleep for a few days, or right around the corner. Travelers from all walks of life will inevitably find something of specific interest to them within the walls of these lodging gems.
Running down the rabbit holes of hotels does not require staying in them. Simply walk in and look around. Or grab a drink or a bite to eat. Many hotels have staff happy to discuss their proud legacies.
Change your travel routine, whether for first-time visits or repeat visits and whether for business or pleasure. Do a little research prior to find the oldest and most historic hotels. Invest the time for a quick stop and look around. You’ll be surprised at what you find.
Hotels offer the opportunity to stumble upon history by accident…but sort of by design. The best of both worlds.
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